Kuala Lumpur

We arrived in Kuala Lumpur early afternoon and boarded what was quite possibly the worst airport transfer bus we have ever been on.  It seems that locals don't like deodorant, nor air conditioning on buses, and don't seem to mind all manner of wildlife sharing the ride. We got off as soon as we could and hailed a cab to our first 5 star hotel of the trip. Our room was on the 18th floor and overlooked the KLCC with views of the top of the Petronas Towers - we felt at home again!

After a proper coffee at Starbucks (thank god there is no more Vietnamese coffee) we found the Buddy Bear Exhibition outside the Pavilion Mall. These bears originated in Berlin about 10 years ago and have since been on a world tour, aiming to promote unity, education and international understanding of each of the 140 countries represented by a bear.

The UK bear was a bit odd to be honest, so here's the American bear!

In order to promote international education and all that, here is another spot the difference for you to have a go at

What could be better than an open top bus tour of KL? We thought this was a great idea - hop on hop off, valid for 24 hours, over 20 stops throughout the city. Perfect, so we bought our tickets.
Except most of the open top buses had one thing we didn't expect - a roof!

The Malaysian Orchid Collection

If anyone is going to KL, here's a tip; don't bother with the bus. It travels slower than I walk, stops miles away from anywhere you may want to go, or right outside the places you don't!

We jumped off about half way round the loop and had a wonder around the National Orchid Garden. I assume that Malaysia doesn't have much of a presence in the Orchid growing world, but the one bed that did have Orchids in was pleasant. We got the next bus, and this bus only had 3/4 of a roof.  At the back was a square of open air, uncomfortable wooden bench seats, in the midday sun and to top it off no commentary, so we went back inside!

Jamek Mosque

Ex National Palace

We slowly went passed the ornate Jamek Mosque, KLs main mosque until the late 1960s, and the National Palace, Istana (Palace) Negara (National).  We were allowed off the bus for 5 mins to take photos but no one is allowed in the grounds.  Only when we got back on the bus did the commentary tell us the palace is vacant as the King moved out a year ago because he didn't like living in the city!

Our next stop was Lake Titiwangsa, apparently a place to provide 'picture postcard views of the city'. After a 20 min hike we found the 'lake' (I guess lake is Malay for pond) and found the one angle where you may just about make a postcard out of the view

Postcard from the pond

Feed me!

Later in the evening we ventured down to Jalan Alor, a small street packed full of market stalls, street food outlets and cafes.

The food on offer here ranged from the pungent Durian fruit sellers (it really stinks but its known as the King of Fruits!!) to chicken feet clay pot specialists (no idea). We played it safe-ish with a busy Malay/Chinese cafe, sat back on the plastic chairs and tucked into a huge pile of satay, nasi goreng, a couple of chicken dishes and a beer or two all for about £15!





To walk it off, we headed to the 421m KL Tower, a communication tower near KLCC.

The Malaysian CN Tower

The next day we decided to venture to the Batu Caves, but decided not to go on one of the many organised tours that depart every morning.  We used the train (£2 return!!) and left KL Sentral at lunchtime. When we got to Batu half an hour later, we pretty much had the place to ourselves!

We were greeted by the world's biggest gold Lord Murugan, a Hindu deity and yet another set of steps to climb!

At the top of the 272 steps, the caves were a little disappointing but I think we were comparing them to Ha Long Bay.

The wild monkeys living on the rocks proved a little more interesting as they came down en masse to scavenge on the food left behind by tourists.

The redeeming feature of the climb to the top was the undoubtedly the view of KL 

And on the way back to the station we played our favourite game!

Yep, you're right - It's David!

Without doubt, the most impressive sight in KL are the Petronas Towers. They are the tallest twin towers in the world and were the tallest buildings in the world between 1998 - 2004 (until Taipei 101 was completed). Built on the world deepest foundations (120m) they were designed using shapes from Islamic art by Argentine architect Cesar Pelli.  Tower 1 is fully occupied by Malaysian petrol company Petronas, whilst Tower 2 is sub let to a number of international businesses.

The skybridge connects the towers at floors 41 and 42, 170m above the ground.  The bridge is not actually attached to the towers due to the sway of the buildings during high winds, something we didn't really want to hear before walking out on to it!

From here, another lift whisked us up another 200m to floor 86 where the view of KL was amazing

View from the top

Tower 2 & KL Tower

Later that evening we had a reservation at the Traders Skybar, overlooking the towers.  The views were outstanding, the drinks were awful and expensive!

Next stop Singapore!

HCMC

Grrrrrr

So we left behind Hanoi and its 10c weather (and 6,000,000 scooters) and took a flight down to Ho Chi Minh City, 1100 miles away.

The first thing we noticed when we landed was it was no longer 10c and we really didn't need the fleeces under our jackets! The second thing was it is bigger than Hanoi. With even more scooters.

Ho Chi Minh City was called Saigon until 1976, and was renamed soon after the capture of anti-communist South Vietnam by the communist North. I guess renaming the musical 'Miss Ho Chi Minh City' doesn't have the same ring.

Similar to Hanoi, the French invasion of Vietnam lead to a number of impressive buildings throughout HCMC.

On the left is the City Hall, and the right is the inside of the post office with the obligatory portrait of Uncle Ho.

I guess at some stage it will close down, be turned into a Weatherspoons and the post office will end up in WHSmith - it just takes time for countries to develop.

Ze Cathedral

The french were obviously lazy when it came to naming buildings they built. 

'What shall we call zis cathedral Pierre?'

'Hmmm, a cathedral Jean Paul? Notre Dame!'

To be fair to HCMC, it has something Hanoi doesn't have; pavements! Granted a stray Honda will still try and use them as a short cut, but at least we didn't have to walk in the road! 

To infinity and beyond?

We wandered the streets for a while soaking up some sunshine, had a look in the war museum to get a southern
anti-communist view on the war, found a few statues to imitate, ate some food, attempted some more Vietnamese coffee (awful) and had an early night in preparation for our trip early in the morning.

Just jammin'

At sunrise (!!!) we were picked up from our hotel and transferred to the harbour to board our speed boat. After the horrendous journey to Ha Long we decided that a speed boat along the Saigon River for an hour was preferable to a two hour road trip in a transit van!


The first bridge we came to just summed up Vietnam - a moped jam at 7am!









But just 15 mins outside of the city, the view turned into a lush jungle paradise with locals going about their daily business

Time for reflection

Anyone for punting?

No pies for Loc

After an hour on the boat we arrived at the Cu Chi Tunnels. The tunnels were used by the Viet Cong guerrillas as hiding places, transportation, kitchens and to treat the sick and injured and stretch for over 250km. What makes this even more impressive is that they were all dug by hand.

Our guide for the day was Loc, and he showed us how tight the tunnel entrances are. Considering we weighs about the same as my right leg and could easily fall down a UK drain, you can see there isn't much room.

Cu Chi 

Ouch

Loc showed us a number of traps that the VC set, including the one on the right. You'd have thought the Americans with their tanks would easily destroy the VC and their primitive traps, but the VC were simply too cunning and organised.

Now cut me up moped!

Boo!

We couldn't come all the way to Cu Chi without having a go crawling through a tunnel section. It started tight and got tighter every 10 meters. By 20 meters it was hands and knees only and it was so hot and dark and it got tighter so we were advised to come out.

HCMC is much more developed and affluent compared to Hanoi, and also therefore, the difference between rich and poor is even more evident. Within a 100m section of the river the new execute housing, District 2, stands opposite traditional self-builds in District 4





We headed back to the centre of town in time for sunset, and headed up to the top of the Sheraton for a drink or two.  A nice way to round off our time in HCMC. I did take my proper camera to take some nice photos - just forgot the memory card! But the iPhone saved the day!

As we headed back down we stumbled upon the Vietnamese version of the Brits, Mai Vang.  Not sure who these people are but the crowd loved them!


Next stop KL!

Ha Long Bay

A torturous bus journey that seemed to go on for days, but really only lasted 3.5 hours, took us from Hanoi to Ha Long Bay where we boarded a junk boat and set sail. The bay contains over 3000 limestone islands and islets, many named after animals they are supposed to look like.

Ha Long means Bay of Descending Dragon, as according to legend the gods sent a team of dragons to protect the Vietnamese people and they decided to live in the bay.

Whatever it means it's simply stunning.

Its a dog! It looks like a rock.

Either Fighting or Kissing Cock Island, depending on your Guide. Uninhabited

Floating community of fisherman.  

For sale. $150k dollars. Planning permission applications to UNESCO. 

Sung Sot (Surprise) Grotto.

It's a cannon! 

 After climbing a few hundred steps to enter Sung Sot, our guide pointed out countless 'animals', 'Buddhas' and other look-a-like rock formations. They all looked like rocks.

Except 'The Cannon'. Now that is a more like it!

2km further down the bay is Titop Island.

Titop Island

View from halfway up Titop

Field and Trek pose from top of Titop

On top of Titop - yes I was sweaty, it was a tough climb!

The mist just adds to the ethereal feel

Three different styles and boats, one common goal; fish.   

It was a long day!

Awesome